Spalding Labs - Fly Control

Incidence of Health Issues Potentially Higher For Horses Exposed To Certain Pesticides.

Posted by on Sep 1st, 2011 and filed under Medical/Nutrition. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0. You can leave a response or trackback to this entry

By following several simple steps discussed here, you may find that getting rid of flies has never been easier. You can virtually eliminate flying pests without having to resort to hiring an exterminator who uses insecticide or fumigation techniques that can harm the environment and may do little to stop infestations, long term.  This involves understanding how a variety of strategies all work in concert to discourage house flies reproduction and to eliminate the flies that do make it to adulthood. Take these steps to heart and you should get rid of flies and other flying pests like never before.

Number one is cleaning up your property. It may sound simple, but stressing sanitation is the first step in fly control and eliminating flies in house. More importantly, is understanding just what effective sanitation actually involves. All outside trash and manure areas should be kept as clean as possible. Make sure all your garbage cans feature lids that seat tightly and always line them with garbage bags. Garbage cans that are kept clean combined with properly sealed, garbage bags, means a huge decrease in odor, which dramatically reduces attracting flies looking to lay their eggs. Keep garbage as far from stables, kennels and housing as possible. Also, flies and dogs can be notorious bed fellows, if you don’t keep your dog’s area routinely picked up. If you spot flies on dogs on your property, it’s time to get extremely aggressive with your canine’s sanitation.

Weekly garbage and manure disposal is critical to fly prevention , as house flies require a minimum of eight days to emerge from their cocoon or pupae. Keeping fly breeding materials such as rotting hay, loose straw, leaves, wet manure and mulch either down to a minimum or covered with black plastic is critical. The plastic encourages the materials to warm up, which in turn destroys fly larvae. If necessary, consider investing in a utility trailer, dump trailer or landscape trailer to enable the easy transport and removal of fly friendly materials. If you operate a major livestock or boarding facility, you might wish to consider a heavy duty trailer, as well. Remember, fly breeding is always centered around moist manure, vegetation or rotting organic matter. Be careful about leaving horse feed like beet pulp out to soak prior to feeding your livestock. Consider using alfalfa hay rather than alfalfa cubes or alfalfa pellets for horses. Alfalfa hay is felt to be the least attractive to flies, of the three choices.  And, understanding how to get rid of flies means really understanding how flies live and interact with the ecosystem, feed and waste by products found on your property.
Spreading potential breeding materials out thinly so that they can dry out, also discourages completion of the fly’s development. This is because flies require very specific moisture and warmth ratios in the materials the pupaes are maturing in. And, swift disposal of any road kill near your property will help keep quick fly infestations from having a chance to develop.

Weed control is another critical component in fly control. Flies need somewhere to rest as well as to escape from extreme temperatures. Tall grasses and weeds provide the perfect fly haven. By eliminating weeds and maintaining closely cropped lawns and fields, flies can often be encouraged to rest and get cooled down, elsewhere.


Understanding The Difference
Between Fighting Adult Flies & Discouraging Fly Reproduction.

When you’re struggling with a fly infestation, bear in mind, you’re targeting the 10% of the population that’s in the adult fly stage. Standard spraying can leave a toxic residue, is rarely effective for very long and does little to address your real problem. You’re surrounded by another 90% that’s in various stages of the larvae and pupae stage, so, your problems have only just begun. Effective fly control starts with eliminating flies while they are in the process of transforming from larvae to full grown adult fly. Before they emerge from the cocoon. Interestingly enough, only 2 to 4% of flies ever actually make it to adulthood. That’s because they are attacked, in the pupae stage by a naturally occurring, fly killer predator that’s harmless to people and animals. These insects are known as fly parasites, fly predators or beneficial insects and they use the metamorphosing fly’s body as a nest. What allows fly infestations to occur is that flies breed nine times as quickly as fly parasites. So, the next phase in pro-active, organic pest control is spreading these fly predator species around your property to increase the ratio of fly parasites to fly pest species. Doing this gives these beneficial insects the opportunity to kill off more of the imminent fly population that is waiting to emerge from their cocoons. You should begin doing this as soon as the temperature hits the 60-65 degree mark.

Now, while strategic use of beneficial insects such as fly parasites is critical (Check out
this fly predators review) to keeping fly populations tamped down, comprehensive fly control may also require the use of fly traps. It’s important to understand which kind of fly trap will affect which kind of fly pests and how best to use them.

Fly Traps: Which
Fly Trap To Use Where & When.

The most common kind of trap, the attractant trap, is used to target the most pervasive of flying pests: House Flies. There are many popular brands and the majority use a non-poisonous attractant to draw the flies in. Most are effective to a radius of 100-150 feet. These traps should be used to draw the flies away from the areas where you keep livestock, pets, etc. Sticky traps, on the other hand, can be hung in barns and stables as they don’t encourage flies, getting rid of the ones who just happen to be around.

House Fly traps are of no value in trapping Biting Stable Flies or Deer or Horse Flies. These pests are captivated by flies traps featuring visual lures. For best results, keep the traps at least 10 ft. away from livestock and pet areas. Post them where the sun beats down the most, but no more than 4 ft. off the ground. For field and pasture pests, place each fly trap a good fifty to one hundred feet apart and out of reach of animals. (They’re non-toxic but unbelievably sticky.)Killing Horse and Deer Flies involves uniquely specialized traps, designed to exploit the pests upward flight patterns. Blue Blow Flies (also known as the blue green fly) breed almost exclusively in decaying animal matter. Female flies may lay hundreds of eggs during their lifetimes. The eggs require 90% relative humidity to hatch. If enough moisture is present, hatching occurs almost immediately.The larvae grow rapidly and, when mature, often crawl many feet to pupate in drier places, either in the soil or in crevices of buildings. New adults emerge in 2-3 weeks. They can have several generations per season. Blue Blow Flies or blue flies are seldom a major pest, but their search for overwintering sites in your barn may cause some concern. Proper disposal of deceased animals will help keep numbers down.

The adult Green Bottle Flies (Also known as green flies) are shiny metallic green to bronze. Medium-sized, these stout flies are 1/4”-1/2” long. The thorax has 3 cross-grooves and black bristle-like hairs. The antennae and legs are black. The wings are clear with light brown veins.

Female Green Bottle Flies lay up to 180 eggs on carrion, dead fish, manure, unprotected wounds, or garbage. The larvae attain full size in 2-10 days, drop to the soil, and burrow shallowly before pupating. There are up to 8 generations a year, the last overwintering as larvae in the soil. The Green Bottle Fly is not as attracted to the smell of fresh meat as is the Blue Bottle Fly. It is also less likely to enter homes. It is often found near dog feces, manure, and garbage cans.

Perennial Solutions: Flies, How To Get Rid Of The Problem For Good.

It happens every year. Just as the weather starts to warm up a bit, there they are. Spring’s first fly swarm. Just why is that? Because you didn’t invest in increasing the ratio of beneficial bugs who kill the pests while they were utterly vulnerable. But, it’s never too late to get going. Implement your poison fly bait, install your sticky fly traps and odor lures and distribute the beneficial fly predators throughout your property. And, forget the fly spray! It not only stinks and barely works against the bad insects, it clobbers the good insects you just spent time spreading around! Most insect repellent and insecticides are indiscriminate and will destroy your beneficial insects along with the flying pests, which could create an even bigger fly problem. And, those good bugs are going to help keep the problem in check going forward, so, you need as many of them around as possible. Remember, poison fly bait is of no interest to the beneficial bugs and won’t harm them, so they can keep working. With this proven strategy, you’ll kill the adult pest flies, get rid of the cocooned larvae just waiting to spread their wings and you’ve gained the upper hand in the fly control wars.

Never forget that eliminating pest spray means saving the beneficial bugs who are working for you for free, i.e., the naturally occurring dung beetles and mites on your property. Combined with the fly parasites you’ve purchased, great sanitation & gardening routines, the right fly traps and poison fly bait, you might become the town’s resident expert on pest control products &  how to get rid of flies! Just wait and see if your neighbors don’t start coming to you for pest control advice.

Rand Sentry Energy

Toy Hauler

You must be logged in to post a comment Login